Purging, breakout or irritation? What to expect when you start a BHA

Purging is a temporary reaction where breakouts may increase when you start using a product with active ingredients, such as salicylic acid (BHA). It tends to show up where you usually get spots. Stinging, burning, itching, swelling or a rash is not purging: rinse the product off and stop using it.

What purging is

The Glowness product page describes purging as a temporary reaction where breakouts may increase when using products with active ingredients. Salicylic acid (BHA) is one of those ingredients.

BHA is oil-soluble, so it works inside pores rather than only on the surface. That is why build-up already in a pore can come to the surface sooner after you start using one. Not everyone gets this, and results vary from person to person.

Purging on its own does not tell you how your skin will respond. It is never a reason to put up with stinging or burning.

Purging, breakout or irritation: how to tell

	What you notice	What to do
Purging	More of your usual small spots or blackheads, in the places you usually get them, after starting a BHA	Keep to your product's directions and keep the rest of your routine simple.
An ordinary breakout	Your usual spots, with nothing new in your routine	Keep your routine simple and gentle.
Probably not purging	Spots in places you do not usually get them, after starting a new product: a breakout, or the product may not suit you	Stop using the product. If your skin does not settle, speak to a pharmacist.
Irritation	Stinging, burning, itching, swelling, a rash, or redness that does not settle	Rinse it off and stop using it.
A possible allergic reaction	Swelling of the face, lips or tongue, hives, or difficulty breathing	Stop using it and get urgent medical help.

If you think it is purging

Keep to your product's directions, and do not use it more often than they say.
Do not add another exfoliant or a new active ingredient at the same time. See what you can mix with salicylic acid.
Follow with moisturiser, and wear SPF in the daytime.
Do not squeeze: squeezing can irritate and mark the skin.
If your skin does not feel comfortable, stop using it.

The Glowness 2% BHA Serum (50 ml) is a leave-on exfoliant with 2% plant-derived salicylic acid, made for oily and combination skin*.

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*Based on a 28-day dermatologist-assessed study of 20 women aged 18-35 when used as part of a skincare routine. Individual results may vary.

When to stop

Stinging, burning, itching, swelling or a rash: rinse it off and stop using it.
In the event of contact with eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water and seek medical advice if you experience irritation.
Swelling of the face, lips or tongue, hives, or difficulty breathing: get urgent medical help.
Painful or persistent spots are not a cosmetic issue. Speak to a pharmacist or GP.

Starting a new exfoliant

Patch test first (see how to patch test a new skincare product), bring in one new product at a time, and follow the directions for that product. For Glowness, the directions are on the product page and in how to use a 2% BHA exfoliant.

Warnings (from the product page)

External use only. Patch-test before first use. In the event of contact with eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water and seek medical advice if you experience irritation; rinse skin and discontinue use. Consult a physician if you are pregnant, nursing, or allergic to salicylic acid. Not to be used for children under 3 years of age. Keep out of reach of children.

Use SPF, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterward.

Sources

Frequently asked questions

Does salicylic acid cause purging?

It can. Purging is a temporary reaction where breakouts may increase when using products with active ingredients, and salicylic acid is one of them. Not everyone gets it.

How long does purging last?

It varies from person to person, so we do not put a number on it. What matters more is how your skin feels: if it stings, burns, itches or swells, it is not purging. Rinse the product off, stop using it, and speak to a pharmacist if your skin does not settle.

Should I keep using salicylic acid if my skin is purging?

If it is a few more of your usual spots and your skin feels comfortable, keep to the directions and keep the rest of your routine simple. If irritation develops, rinse it off and stop using it.

Is it purging or a reaction?

Purging looks like more of your usual spots in your usual places. Stinging, burning, itching, swelling or a rash is a reaction: rinse it off and stop using it.

Does purging mean the product is working?

Not on its own. Purging is a reaction some people get when they start an active ingredient. Purging on its own does not tell you how your skin will respond. Results vary by skin type and routine consistency.

Can a moisturiser or SPF make my skin purge?

Purging is linked to active ingredients that exfoliate, such as salicylic acid. If you break out after a new moisturiser or SPF, the product may simply not suit you.

The Glowness 2% BHA Serum (50 ml) is a leave-on exfoliant with 2% plant-derived salicylic acid, made for oily and combination skin*.

Start Glowing

Compare 2-packs and 3-packs

Also available on Amazon UK (opens in a new tab)

*Based on a 28-day dermatologist-assessed study of 20 women aged 18-35 when used as part of a skincare routine. Individual results may vary.